Nose

Space Budget

When you first get the car it looks like there is a lot of room in the nose. Then you start putting stuff in it and you realize that you need to consider everything that will go into the space before you start mounting things. Here is what needs to go into the space between the radiator and the foot box listed from highest to lowest impact:

• Extended foot box (yeah it's welded in, but it takes up space vs. the standard foot box)

• Radiator, shroud and fans (mine are bigger than stock)

• Two heat exchangers plumbed in parallel for the intercoolers

• Radiator supply and return lines

• Front brake, rear brake and clutch reservoirs and supply lines

• Lift pump, reservoir and lines

• Condenser supply line (#8)

• AC dryer and lines from condenser to evaporator (#6)

• Penske shock reservoirs and hoses

• Radiator bleed line

• Horn

• Window washer fluid reservoir

• Front and ear brake lines and RPVs

• Clutch line

• Sway bar and actuator

• Wiper motor

• Nose hinge

• Brake duct hoses

• Battery

Nose Hinge

I’m working with Bob developing an custom nose hinge. More info here.

• Fully Torqued Racing;

  • Rod end: 5/16”-24

  • Clevis: 5-16”-18

• Steinjager: 5-16”-24

  • 5/16” = 0.3125

  • 0.188” => 0.1875” = 3/16”

• 14” washer OD is 0.625

• Clevis

  • https://steinjager.com/shop/Male-1-4-28-LH-0.1875-Bore-0.125-Opening-2-Pack-J0030901

  • http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C73-493-2/

  • https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/SS-PMC-5-4

  • http://www.pro-werks.com/partlist/18746/

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SPlitter

RADIATOR OUTLET

• Radiator Inlet: 28-1/4” x 5”(141 square inches)

• Stock Outlet: 24” x 2-7/8” (69 square inches) Assuming no vertical lip

• Roughly a 2x difference

Nose Frame

The box that supports the radiator, diffuser, nose, etc. isn’t very sturdy. It provides negligible protection in a high-speed collision leaving the very stout monocoque as the first line of defense. It also allows the the diffuser to move around more than is ideal. Some street-car builders internally brace the box and most race cars and several street/track cars construct a proper tube frame. Here’s two builder’s approaches.

24-Hour Thunder Hill car Frame

Observations:

• They are sending us sway bar for mocking purposes. They will need it back ASAP for race seacvson.

• Different splitter and radiator angle.

• No nose hinge

• Recovery strap is different

• Bracket at top corner can’t wrap chassis and go under suspension mounting point. Instead, we’ll tie it into the 1/2” bolt that goes through the rod end.

wheel WELL VeNTS

HOWARD Airflow in the front wheel well is: under the nose along the bottom of the splitter, into the wheel well, up over and around the tire, and then out the vent and wheel opening and exhaust slot behind the tire. There is also some radiator exhaust air coming into the wheel well from the little triangle openings at the rear of the side vertical radiator supports. I closed these on my car.

The fender top vents are trying to deplete the high pressure zone at the front top of the tire so it is placed to best present the low pressure area on top of the fender to allow air flow through the fender and out of the car decreasing lift and/or improving downforce.

Place the vent with the leading edge on the first vent slot a inch on so ahead of the centerline of the front wheel. Be sure that the trailing end isn't obscured by the center section bodywork when the nose is on the car. The picture on Mikes car above, post #289, is just about right.